Puttering around western Uganda this week, currently sipping coffee on my balcony near Fort Portal, a charming little city that serves as the capital of the Tororo Kingdom and the gateway to some of Uganda’s most famous wildlife preserves. For today, though, I didn’t venture far: up to the crater lakes that partly ring the city. Not much wildlife this close to the city, unless you count goats and cows. Still, the views were stunning.

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